Every time I journey through Herzegovina, the southern part of my homeland, Bosnia and Herzegovina, I make it a point to visit the Radimlja necropolis, situated 3 kilometers west of Stolac. This vast field houses 135 medieval tombstones, known as stećci (pronounced "stech-tsee"), meticulously arranged in dense rows. The sight of these ancient monolithic tombstones adorned with intricate geometric patterns, celestial motifs like moons and stars, and depictions of people extending welcoming hands captivates me. As I stand there, I can't help but wonder about the identities of those laid to rest here and the lives they led. This isn't just an ordinary cemetery; it holds within it centuries of my country's history, guarding it jealously.

 

 
Stećci are iconic and enigmatic landmarks of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Over 60,000 of these medieval stone monuments can be found scattered across the nation's countryside, with a smaller number also present in neighboring Croatia, Serbia, and Montenegro. Often grouped together in necropolises, these magnificent tombstones emerge gracefully from the lush greenery of the Bosnian hills and meadows. Their vivid and mysterious designs have puzzled historians and travelers for ages, yet they continue to serve as a profound symbol of national pride and identity among Bosnia's diverse and multi-ethnic population.
 
 
Stećci, crafted between the 12th and 16th centuries, share similarities with gravestones worldwide, often adorned with religious crosses and rosettes. Additionally, some feature depictions of weapons, offering clues about the social status and occupation of the deceased. These tombstones also provide captivating glimpses into medieval Bosnian daily life through scenes of stag hunts, chivalry duels, and group kolo funerary dances.
 
Numerous stećci bear Cyrillic inscriptions, containing information about the departed and even philosophical reflections. For instance, the Viganj Milošević epitaph reads, "I once was as you are and you shall be as I am," shedding light on the literacy levels of that era.
 
The term "stećci" (plural of stećak) is derived from the verb "stajati," meaning "to stand," as these tombstones were meant to stand over the graves and identify the individuals buried there. Recognizing their historical and cultural importance, UNESCO has inscribed stećci on the World Heritage List for their remarkable universal value.
 
According to Elma Hašimbegović, director of the History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, one of the most intriguing aspects of stećci is their representation of the fusion and blending of diverse influences, including Eastern and Western, Mediterranean, Byzantine, and Central European, as well as Catholic and Orthodox, Latin and Cyrillic literacy.
 
Throughout history, the region of modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina has been a meeting point for various cultures and religions. The Orthodox, Catholic, and Bosnian churches coexisted during medieval times. Scholars agree that stećci were utilized by followers of all three religious groups, evidenced by the presence of Eastern Orthodox-inspired crosses and rosettes, Western-inspired shield motifs with swords, and inscriptions denoting affiliations such as "of true Roman faith" or "slave of God." These unique tombstones stand as tangible testaments to the religious diversity and cultural confluence of Bosnia's past.
 
 
The origin of stećci has been a subject of debate among experts. Some scholars associate them with the Bogomils, a dualistic religious sect from the Balkans, while others suggest a connection with the Vlachs, a nomadic population of that era. Curiously, anthropologists began studying these tombstones in the late 19th century, and since then, Serbians, Croatians, and Bosniaks—the predominant ethnic groups in present-day Bosnia and Herzegovina—have all vied to claim stećci as part of their heritage.
 
Hašimbegović points out that such disputes are common in historically "divided societies" like Bosnia and Herzegovina, where culture and historical heritage are often viewed solely through the lens of national politics and identity. Despite this, many stećci have been neglected over the years, prompting Hašimbegović to send a message to political leaders: they may claim ownership, but they must also take responsibility for preserving and caring for these precious relics.
 
Notably, the significance of stećci has not been lost on Bosnian and Herzegovinian artists and writers. Notably, the poet Mak Dizdar was inspired by stećci drawings and inscriptions, creating one of the most important literary works in the country. His poems reawakened the population to the importance of these ancient stones, serving as a poignant reminder to honor their past while embracing their unique identity.
 

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